If you need more bandwidth and faster connection speeds, you can easily bond two separate DSL lines to form a single ultra-fast pipe. Before you get started, you will need to make sure you have all of the right hardware. Most desktops and laptops can only handle a single Ethernet and a single Wi-Fi connection at one time. However, if you intend to use two Ethernet or two Wi-Fi connections you will need to either install a second card or to pick up a simple USB adapter that will offer you a way to connect to another Ethernet or Wi-Fi connection.
It is important to note that you are boding two different DSL lines. If you connect to the same DSL line through Wi-Fi and through an Ethernet connection via the same router, for example , they will not be bonded into a faster pipe because they will share the same upstream connection.
You will also want to download the Speedify app. The first step is simple. Connect your computer to the first DSL line. Digital Subscriber Line DSL is a technology that puts high speed digital data on standard two-conductor voice-grade telephone wiring. DSL service is often added to an existing telephone line.
When properly installed, the DSL service and phone can be used simultaneously without interference. When improperly installed, telephones and other equipment connected to the telephone line can cause problems with the DSL service. This application note describes why this happens, and how to fix the problem. This application note applies to all known forms as of this writing.
The DSL signal can be "superimposed" on an existing phone line because the frequencies DSL uses are far above the frequencies used in voice conversations.
Telephones won't even reproduces these frequencies. So the DSL signal doesn't interfere with phones The problem is that the circuitry inside virtually any device that connects to the phone line isn't designed with DSL frequencies in mind. DSL wasn't even around when most of these products were designed! If you think about it, telephone equipment is always "listening" to the phone line The answering machine needs to know when to pick up, and even your alarm system may have the capability to receive incoming calls to arm the alarm remotely, check on status, etc.
Even if these features aren't enabled, the circuitry is still connected to the phone line. Even if it doesn't, I'll guarantee it will as soon as you pick up a phone! There are two ways to keep your telephone equipment from interfering with your DSL signal: The easiest method is to put something between each piece of telephone equipment and the line to keep the equipment from interfering.
If you have a dial tone and your internet works, your task is complete. Part 2. For example, if your old jack is a standard rectangular wall plate, it will be easiest to install a new jack that looks very similar. If you plan to attach your telephone to the wall, make sure you buy a wall mount jack, rather than a flush jack.
A wall mount jack juts out from the wall, providing a structure on which to mount your telephone. A flush jack lies flat against the wall, allowing you to plug in your phone, but not mount it. Baseboard jacks are small plastic or metal boxes that are affixed to your baseboard, with the jack opening on the bottom edge of the box. The NID has two sides: one for the phone company, and one for customers. Now your phone line is disconnected from the outside network. Part 3. Remove the old jack from the wall.
Each wire is secured behind a screw. Use a screwdriver to loosen the screws, unsecure the four wires from behind them, and pull the old jack from the wall. If your jack is the type that is a rectangular box attached to a plate on the wall with notches, use a flathead screwdriver to pop off the top part of the case, and proceed to loosen the screws and remove the wires. Unscrew the plating and remove this from the wall as well. Prepare the wires for your new jack. Now use the wire cutter or a utility knife to gently strip the insulation from the tips of the wires so they may be connected to the new jack.
Attach the telephone wires to the new jack. Turn the new jack over and loosen the four screws on the back. Connect each wire to the correct section of the jack, marked by color; there will be a spot for the red, green, yellow, and black wires. Secure the wires by tightening each screw. Mount the jack. Push the wires into the wall and position the jack over the hole. Place the new screws in the screw holes and use a screwdriver to secure the new jack to the wall.
Depending on the type of jack you have, you may have a cover case that should be secured onto the wall piece to complete the process. Some types of jacks come with adhesive backing in addition to screws. Reconnect the phone line. Return to the NID on the outside of your house. Open the box and plug the test jack back in. Test your line. Plug your telephone or DSL cable into your newly installed jack. Your phone should have a dial tone, and your internet connection should work now as long as your computer is correctly set up for a DSL connection.
If the phone line does not seem to be working, you may need to unscrew the new jack and make sure the wires are connected to the proper places and correctly screwed in. If further electrical work is required, make sure to go back to the NID and disconnect the phone line again before manipulating the wires.
Daniel Stoescu Master Electrician. Daniel Stoescu. Place the wires onto the designated terminals on the mounting plate. It's the phone company's property and responsibility right up to the network interface device. From that point onward, it's all yours. The phone company's line consists of a two pairs of wires. Each pair is typically considered as part of a loop, connecting a two-terminal device at the customer's end to a two-terminal device at the phone company.
It was literally a loop years ago, now it is more likely to behave much as though it were a loop without literally being one. The two wire pairs are considered, again for historical reasons, as the ring and the tip, referring back to when the ring and tip of an electrical plug were connected to the two lines.
That gives us Tip 1 and Ring 1 as the two wires of pair 1, and Tip 2 and Ring 2 as the two wires of pair 2. Practically speaking, the wires of pair 1 are blue with a thin white stripe, and white with a thin blue stripe. Similarly, the wires of pair 2 are orange with a thin white stripe, and white with a thin orange stripe. For most homes with a single line, pair 1 is used and pair 2 is an unused spare.
Most residential phone wiring in the U. This four-strand wire would support two separate lines. But the overwhelming majority of homes had just one line. New telephone wiring projects should use quality twisted-pair cable like that used for Ethernet.
Category 5 cable should be fine, Category 6 would be overkill if we're just using voice plus DSL. Category 5 has good performance up to MHz, 5e has a tighter crosstalk specification. When you're connecting Ethernet cabling at the NID or network interface device, match its wire colors to the telephone company's.
White-with-blue to white-with-blue and so on. When you're dealing with legacy wiring already in place within the house, use the color matching shown above. We have opened the telephone Network Interface Device to find dirt, debris and old wasps' nests. The phone company's line comes in from the plastic conduit at bottom. That conduit has been painted a brick-red color. The end of the part of the cable retaining its outer plastic jacket is wrapped in black electrical tape.
Wire pair 1 loops up to the top of the box and back down. This pair is blue with a thin white stripe, and white with a thin blue stripe.
Wire pair 2, orange and white, is coiled near the end of where the jacket has been cut away, where the electrical tape is wrapped around the last couple of inches of outer jacket. Wire pair 1 is connected to terminals at either end of a black plastic block. The central terminal is the ground, where you connect the heavy green jacketed wire from the phone company and the heavy wire, here with a beige jacket, leading to a ground rod.
There, a 4-conductor cord just a few inches long has a modular plug on one end, and at the other end leads to a 4-terminal block. This allows you to unplug that short modular jumper and connect a phone, testing the connection out at the NID.
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